You may be deciding if you can spend time repairing the old valve, but the issues will resurface in a few years. Replacement of faulty valves with contemporary quarter-turn ball valves is the best solution. They seldom lock up, leak, or wear out, and they’re easy to install in about an hour. So let’s get started. We’ll walk you through how to replace a shut off valve!
- A wrench that can be adjusted.
- Gloves made of flame-resistant fabric.
- Pliers with a locking mechanism.
- Torch for soldering.
- Required Materials.
- Valve for shutting off the water supply.
- Determine the type of valve connection.
The copper plumbing lines are connected to a shutdown valve in one of two ways:
- Fittings for compression.
- Fits like a glove.
Determine the type of connection utilized in your home.
With galvanized pipes, we recommend calling a plumber to replace them. It may appear simple enough to unscrew the old valve and replace it with a new one. This simple plumbing job can quickly develop into a plumbing nightmare if the pipe is inside rusty or the threads are rotten. These instructions do not apply if your home is plumbed with PEX or plastic pipe.
Buy a quarter-turn shutdown ball valve to match the size of the incoming copper pipe and the size of the supply tube connection once you’ve determined the connection type.
There are no hex flats where the copper tubing enters from the wall on a sweat shutdown valve. Swap out a sweat valve for a compression valve or another sweat valve.
Examine the valve’s closest section to the wall. Next to the compression nut, look for a hexagonal compression nut and matching hex flats on the valve’s body.
Valve with Threads:
Where the steel pipe enters the valve, look for threads and hex flats.
- Get ready to replace your valves.
Close the main shutoff valve and turn off the water. Turn the knob on your gas water heater to the ‘pilot’ position. Turn off the electric water heater’s circuit breakers. Then, to drain the pipes, open a faucet on the lowest level of your home and another on the upper level. The supply tube should then be disconnected from the shutdown valve. Replace the valve if necessary.
- Following the replacement.
Close the newly installed valve. Then open the water main shutdown valve and flow the water until the pipes are completely clear of air. After that, turn off both the upper and lower faucets. Check for leaks in the new valves. Return the water heater’s gas valve to “on” or the electric water heater’s circuit breakers to “on.”
- Take out the old sweat valve with a torch.
Using pliers, hold the valve in place while loosening the packing nut and unscrewing the entire valve stem. If the old washer is stuck on the seat, look inside and remove it. The valve stem can be removed to allow any remaining water to drain, making the procedure easier. Before you start torching, make sure you have a fire extinguisher handy and a flame-resistant fabric on the wall. The old valve and any residual solder should then be removed.
To begin, tape the flame protection fabric to the wall and drape it over the copper tubing. Adjust the torch to a small flame and aim it at the valve’s body. Carefully pull the valve off the copper tubing with pliers as soon as the solder melts.
- Remove any extra solder.
Using an emery cloth, clean the tubing. Sand off all traces of solder before installing the replacement escutcheon, nut, and sleeve if you’re replacing a sweat valve with a compression valve. Remove enough old solder from the tubing to allow the new sweat valve to slide onto it. Remove the stem from the new quarter-turn valve and wire-brush the opening before applying flux to the valve and copper tubing.
Grab a damp cotton rag and put on a leather glove (microfiber cloth will melt). Heat the valve just enough to draw in the solder while wearing the flame protection cloth. With the torch, heat the remaining solder until it is molten. Wipe away any excess solder with a moist rag as soon as it melts. To avoid steam burns, make sure you’re wearing leather gloves.
- A compression shutdown valve should be removed and replaced.
Hold the valve body with an adjustable or open-end wrench or slip-joint pliers to remove a compression-style valve. To loosen the compression nut, grab it with another wrench and turn it clockwise. After that, remove the valve from the copper tube.
Remove the previous compression sleeve and nut after that. To prevent bending the copper tubing, grab the old sleeve with pliers and apply light pressure. After that, rotate it and pull it away from the tubing. If the sleeve is stuck, break it with a saw.
Use a hacksaw to cut partially through the sleeve at an angle to saw it off. To avoid cutting the copper tube, use short strokes. Before you reach the copper, check your progress and stop cutting.
- Twist the sleeve and break it.
To break the sleeve, insert a flat-blade screwdriver into the cut and twist the screwdriver. Remove the old sleeve, compression nut, and escutcheon (if it has to be replaced).
- Place the new compression sleeve in place.
Attach the new escutcheon and compression nut to the copper tubing using the new escutcheon and compression nut. Then, onto the copper tubing, slip the new compression sleeve. Locate the new sleeve slightly in front of the marks if the old sleeve leaves depression marks.
Compression Valve Replacement
Apply a light coat of pipe dope to the compression sleeve before installing the new valve. After that, tighten the compression nut on the valve. Tighten the nut a half to three-quarter turn (per the manufacturer’s tightening instructions) while holding the valve with a tool or pliers. Test for leaks after connecting the supply tube.
Is it possible to utilize a push-fit valve?
Quarter-turn push-fit ball-style shutoff valves are available from a number of manufacturers and can be installed without the use of tools. If you have enough tubing protruding from the wall and it’s in excellent form, they’re a good alternative to sweat and compression fittings. They make the process easier. You might be able to utilize a push-fit valve for replacing your old compression or sweat valve if your stub-out tubing is absolutely symmetrical, long enough, and has a square-cut end.
Stub-out tubing of at least one in. is required for most push-fit valves. So, before you buy, measure the length of the stub-out and compare it to the length specifications of the valve maker. If your tubing is suitable, look for a valve that fulfills your requirements (straight or angled). Push-fit valves come with or without a supply tube that is permanently attached.
Remove any burrs from the open end before installing a push-fit valve. If you’re replacing a sweat valve, make sure the tubing is exactly round, and there are no traces of solder. Then, on the tubing, indicate the installed length and press the valve until it reaches the mark.
If you are in the Asheville, NC area and need a professional plumber, CONTACT Autry Plumbing LLC today!
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